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What is it about Provençal cuisine that makes it so irresistible?

November 17, 2022

Great farmers, highly skilled chefs, a long tradition of country cooking, a brilliant Mediterranean fishing coastline in the South of France, the world’s greatest farmland and the double influences of French cooking specifically, and Mediterranean cooking generally. And truffles!

Provence is also one of the world’s great wine countries.

Like Italian and Greek food culture, Provençal gastronomy is a “cuisine du soleil,” a profoundly Mediterranean cuisine based on seafood, olive oil, beans, herbs and plenty of vegetables.

Provence dishes favor the world’s tastiest lamb; most amazing produce like tomatoes, cherries, berries and more; a delicious salmon-looking trout called the Sorgue trout; and many other incredible ingredients.

But it’s also specifically French, with the world’s greatest cheese, wine and bread.

Happily, cherry season overlaps with lavender season, and so during a few weeks of the year these exquisite flavors appear on Provençal plates (and, uncoincidentally, that’s when our Summer Provence Rosé Experience takes place!).

Many of the world’s favorite French dishes are specifically Provençal. Bouillabaisse, ratatouille, tapenade and niçoise salad all come from Provence.

Other classic and tasty dishes include:

  • Soupe au Pistou, a vegetable and bean soup.

  • Tarte Tropézienne, which is a brioche cake filled with sweet cream, was actually named by actress Brigitte Bardot.

  • Daube, a beef stew, flavored with onions, carrots, mushrooms, olives, garlic, herbes de Provence and a red wine sauce.

  • Pissaladière, which is Provençal pizza served as an appetizer, made with caramelized onions, black olives, and pissalat — a salty sardine and anchovy paste.

  • And many other dishes.

Provençal cuisine is bright, colorful, beautiful and tasty beyond belief — especially as prepared by our friends — Provence’s most visionary and talented chefs, including some of France’s most beloved Michelin Star chefs.

If you want to taste the greatest food Provence has to offer — truly some of the best food in the world — sign up now for The Provence Rosé Experience!

The cuisine of Provence is the result of all the stars lining up to create the world’s most sumptuous food — farming, history, climate, geography and unbelievable culinary skill. That’s why Provençal cuisine is so irresistible!

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Tags France, Provence, Lavender, Wine

Why rosé pairs with… Provence!

May 5, 2022

Provence is the undisputed rosé capital of the world. Stroll along the Côte d’Azur and it’s clear that everyone is drinking it. A pale pink bottle of wine sits on every restaurant table and every beach blanket. Brosés (rosé bros) stroll along the shore with bottle in hand, drinking directly from the bottle. Tourists slurp down frosés (frozen rosé).

Rosé seems like a modern wine style, but it’s very old.

In fact, Provence was the first place where the French made wine. And the first French wine was rosé — mostly pink-orange field blends of white and red grapes. Locals were taught wine-making by the Phoenicians more than 2,600 years ago.

In other words, people were drinking rosé on the French Riviera long before people in Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne even heard of wine.

Centuries later, the Romans distributed rosé from Provence to the entire Roman world, and Massilia (now called Marseille) was synonymous with delicious rosé throughout the Roman Empire.

That was a big deal back then. Light red wines were far more common than deep reds well into the Middle Ages. (Darker red wines were generally considered inferior to pale reds until just a few centuries ago. Red wine was for commoners and rosé was for the aristocrats.)

What is rosé, anyway?

Red wine is made red with color from the skins of red wine grapes. White wine is white because it’s made from grape juice without skin contact. Rosé is wine made with just a little color from red-grape skins.

This is usually achieved by short skin contact (just a few hours), blending whites and reds (which is illegal in France) or the saignée method, which is the making of rosé as a byproduct of red wine-making. Saignée (pronounced sone-YAY) is a French technique where some juice is removed from red wine during fermentation to increase the skin-to-juice ratio, which intensifies the color and taste of red wine. The removed juice is pink, and fermented separately to make rosé.

The enormous Cotes de Provence AOC alone produces around three-quarters of all the wine in Provence, and roughly 80% of that in the form of rosé.

Most other AOCs in Provence also produce a lot of rosé, mainly using Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Tibouren, Counoise, Carignan, Braquet, Folle Noire and Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties.

The reputation of rosé was tarnished in the 20th Century with the popularity of two bad Portuguese rosés called Mateus and Lancers, which dominated the US rosé market from the mid 40s to the mid 80s. The super sweet white Zinfandel “blush wine” craze of the 80s didn’t do rosé’s reputation any favors, either. (White Zin was created by accident in 1975 by Bob Trinchero who tried to make dry rosé with the saignée method, and a stuck fermentation foiled his plans. The resulting low-alcohol, high-sugar product turned out to be a hit with consumers.)

But since the 2000s, Americans started discovering better rosé, mostly from Provence. Serious French and American wine snobs started appreciating great rosé only in the last few years.

Now, rosé is made and consumed globally. But the very best is still made in Provence.

And that’s where we come in.

We have searched and researched and tasted rosés all around Provence, and our Provence Experience guests drink only the world’s greatest rosés — wines that are never exported to the US — during our adventure (as well as Provence’s greatest reds and whites).

And we prove once and for all that Julia Child was right: Rosé pairs with everything.

Join us and see for yourself! — Mike

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Tags France, Provence, Wine, Rosé

The Ultimate Valentine

February 14, 2022

Tens of millions of tourists see Venice each year. But hardly anyone knows about the heaven-on-Earth Prosecco Road less than one hour North.

And yet this may be the most beautiful wine country in the world, with a fantastic and wildly underappreciated culture.

While everyone is familiar with the City of Venice, the islands and lagoon, the culture of medieval Venice responsible for that city was part of the larger "Serenìsima Repùblega Vèneta," which means "Most Serene Republic of Venice" in the Venetian language. The "country" of Venice extended all the way up to the Prosecco Road to the mountains beyond.

During our incredible Prosecco Experience, we explore the wonders of Venetian culture — the incredible food, wine, architecture and history — which lasted for a thousand years.

The Prosecco Road itself connects the beautiful towns of Conegliano and Valdobbidene and all the charming villages between, winding over brilliant green vineyards and forests. The landscape is breathtaking and picture-perfect.

The castles, abbeys, historic towns and incredible beauty of the Prosecco Hills should be well known to every Europe-loving traveler. But the tourist masses haven't found this idyllic spot yet, and so the Prosecco Road is one of the last undiscovered wine countries.

Which is just how we like it. We don't do tourism. The Prosecco Experience is not a tour. It's an immersive exploration of an incredible place and wonderful culture with our brilliant and visionary local food and wine friends. (We can’t give you the details; every exclusive gathering, meal, activity and location is a secret.)

But if you guess we’ll be drinking some incredible wine — well, that’s a very good guess. The Prosecco Hills is a wine country without equal — you're always surrounded by vineyards on rolling hills. We'll wake up and go to bed surrounded by vineyards.

And while everyone is familiar with the kind of prosecco this region exports abroad, the best prosecco can be tasted only in the Prosecco Hills. This Experience will transform your relationship with prosecco. We'll also enjoy a wide range of other incredible, astonishing red and white wines made only in the region. We’ll enjoy this wine with the winemakers themselves.

And the food — the food!! — so amazing. We can’t wait to show you this magical, undiscovered gastronomic paradise.

We have just one room available for our next Prosecco Experience, which happens May 23 through 28, 2022. Book now and make it yours. You deserve this!

Tags Authenticity, Joy, Love, Vineyards, Italy, Venice, Prosecco, Wine, Experience

Wow! The scenery in the Prosecco Hills!

September 1, 2021

The Prosecco Experience isn’t just about incredible Venetian food and some of Italy’s best wine. These culinary delights take place against a backdrop of pristine rolling hills covered by cascading vineyards, hilltop villages, ancient farmhouses and heavenly skies. Only two spots left for The Prosecco Experience in May, 2022. You deserve this.

Tags Italy, Prosecco, Experience, Wine
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Picturing the Picture-Perfect Prosecco Experience!

January 26, 2020
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You owe it to yourself to explore with us the beauty and wine and gastronomy of The Prosecco Experience. We still have room for our May and September Prosecco Experiences.

Tags Italy, Venice, Prosecco, Delicious, Wine
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Wine tasting in Barcelona

August 7, 2019

This photo was taken at a natural-wine tasting for sommeliers in Barcelona during our first Barcelona Experience. The tasting was a wonderful event with cool people at an amazing venue in the city.

We love wine tasting, and we're planning some fun and surprising wine tasting in Barcelona and the nearby cava county (they make a lot more than cava!) at the upcoming Cava Barcelona Experience, which is now only one month away!!

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Tags Wine, Spain, Barcelona
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Our favorite country is wine country

August 6, 2019

Wherever we go in this world, we always seek out the places where the small, old wineries and vineyards are.

Wine countries, whether they're in Europe, Asia, Australia or the Americas, are always beautiful, and they also tend to have great food.

Because wine is big business, agri-giants are growing grapes on vast, industrial vineyards where grapes really shouldn't be grown. You see them springing up in California in the Central Valley, and in the vast agricultural space between the Napa/Sonoma wine country and the Santa Barbara/Santa Ynez wine country. Not beautiful.

But in the places where vineyards are small, and exist among with homes, small towns and other kinds of agriculture, they're always beautiful.

(This vineyard happens to be on the Prosecco Road north of Venice in Italy, where we do our Prosecco Experience. )

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Tags Wine, Vineyards

Looking forward to a Venetian Autumn

August 2, 2019

They make prosecco out of grapes that can tolerate, and in fact need, extreme weather conditions. Glera grapes love South-facing and steep slopes, very strong wind, near freezing temperatures in the Winter and heat in the summer. It's always beautiful in the Prosecco Hills, but the region gets real weather.

Autumn in Veneto, however, is extremely pleasant and beautiful -- especially so because it's a rare spot in Italy where the food, wine and scenery are magnificent, but the tourists haven't discovered it yet. (Or maybe the tour busses can't handle the narrow, winding lanes and steep hills.)

Yes, Venice itself is the poster child for overtourism. But the rest of Veneto is largely undiscovered by the Instagram set. That's one of the hundred reasons why we love hosting our Prosecco Experience.

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Tags Italy, Venice, Prosecco, Wine
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Why Barcelona is my favorite place to drink vermouth

July 20, 2019

Good vermouth is a delicious, refreshing and delightful beverage that's misunderstood, abused and maligned. The drink is also associated with Italy, or maybe France. But I think that in the last few years, Barcelona, Spain, is the best city to drink vermouth. (And, of course, we'll be drinking Barcelona's very best vermouth during our Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience.)

I'll tell you why in a minute. But first, let's talk about vermouth itself.

Vermouth is a fortified white wine flavored with botanicals. The "fortification" involves the addition of alcohol (brandy or neutral spirits) to bring the level to at least 14.5% in Europe or 15% in the US. (By definition, vermouth is at least 75% wine.)

The name "vermouth" comes from the French pronunciation of the German word for wormwood (wermut) -- and wormwood is one of the few universal ingredients in good vermouth.

Fortified, botanical wines have existed in China for millennia and Europe for centuries, mostly as a medicine. But Vermouth as we know it today was invented in mid-18th century Turin, Italy. That Italian invention was a red vermouth. Later, white and dry vermouth was developed in France.

Vermouth can be sweet or dry -- or, more recently, extra-dry white, sweet white, red, amber, and rosé.

Vermouth is used as an ingredient in cocktails, of course. That's the American way. Before World War II, more than half the cocktails commonly quaffed in America contained vermouth as an ingredient. And Americans even drank it neat. But the war stopped imports of vermouth from Italy and France, and Americans lost touch with it.

It's still a necessary ingredient in the quintessentially American cocktail: the martini. Interestingly, the original martini used sweet vermouth, but over time a dry martini with dry vermouth became the preferred martini. Use of the term "dry martini" gradually changed from meaning "dry vermouth instead of sweet" to meaning "a lesser amount of dry vermouth instead of the normal amount of dry vermouth.")

Cocktail books list more than 200 cocktails containing vermouth, mostly dry vermouth. As a result, most Americans think of vermouth as a cocktail mixer exclusively.

Many people think they don't like vermouth, but only because they've never tried the good stuff. They've been exposed only to the mass-market industrial brands, or they've tried old vermouth in the back of someone's liquor cabinet or sitting with the spirits at a bar (which destroys it) -- or both.

Once you open a bottle of vermouth, the clock is ticking, and should be refrigerated, and also consumed within a month or two. (Vermouth is commonly ruined because people believe it to be -- and handle it as -- a spirit. In fact, it's white wine and should be treated as such -- drunk cold and young and soon after opening.)

Vermouth is normally made with Clairette blanche, Piquepoul, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Catarratto or Trebbiano grape varieties. Non-white vermouths are also usually made with white wine, but colored by caramelized sugar.

The taste of vermouth is dominated by the proprietary blend of botanicals and other ingredients used by the maker, which may include wormwood, cloves, cinnamon, quinine, citrus peel, cardamom, nutmeg, marjoram, chamomile, coriander, mugwort, sagebrush, juniper, lavender, holly thistle, hyssop, gentian, ginger, black elder, anise, iris root, apple brandy, honey, cinchona bark, sweet flag, licorice root, cascarilla, angelica root, lemon peel, lime peel, bitter orange, bergamot orange peel, pomelo peel, oregano, dittany of Crete, gallic rose, st. john’s wort, honeysuckle flower, kieffer lime leaves, sage, star anise, cinnamon bark, cardamom, tonka bean, vanilla, allspice and many other ingredients.

While vermouth "manufacturing" happens predominantly in Italy and France, the vermouth "revival" is happening strongest in Barcelona. Spanish vermouth tends to be less bitter and taste sweeter, even though it also tends to have less sugar.

Personally, I think Barcelona is the greatest city in the world for enjoying vermouth. Every neighborhood seems to have a vermouth bar -- some of which are old and fancy; others are literally two stools on the sidewalk. Many serve their own house-made vermouth from a tap, and it's often cheap, as little as 2 Euros per glass, which comes with snacks, such as potato chips, olives, anchovies, shellfish or pan con tomate.

The Spanish way to drink vermouth is neat or on the rocks with an olive, a slice of orange or lemon and, perhaps, a splash of soda, before lunch, before dinner or after church on Sunday (many Spaniards have stopped going to church but continued the Sunday vermouth tradition). Vermouth is usually consumed as a very social "first drink of the day." The pre-dinner vermouth session can last two hours and signals the end of the day and the beginning of the evening.

And it's this ritual, combined with the enthusiastic house-made vermouth renaissance in Barcelona, that makes the city so great for vermouth. To drink vermouth at the right time in the right place is to join the locals in an extremely enjoyable ritual.

I'm really looking forward to sharing my favorite vermouths and vermouth bars during our Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience!

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Tags Spain, Barcelona, Vermouth, Wine
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Why this glass of wine came with an empty can of Coke

April 19, 2019

Amira and I had dinner at an undisclosed location here in Morocco — a pretty nice restaurant with some pretty good food. While ordering, our owner/waiter asked if we wanted wine. I said yes. And he said: “We don’t have our liquor license, so if you have wine please be discreet about it.” And so when he brought the wine in a glass, he also brought an empty can of Coke so it looked like I was drinking a soft drink. I looked around the restaurant, and just about everybody had empty cans of various soft drinks on the table.

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Tags Morocco, Wine
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My office today: the patio of some hotel off the main drag

April 13, 2019

Hunting for a celebrated fish joint in Essaouira, Morocco, we stumbled across this hotel patio and decided to hang out for awhile, get some work done and enjoy a nice Moroccan rosé. 

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Tags Morocco, Essaouira, Wine, Rosé
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The Italian food and wine trip of a lifetime

April 12, 2019

Tucked away in the Northeast corner of Italy is one of the most beautiful places on Earth: The stunning vineyard-covered Prosecco Hills of Veneto, just North of Venice.

This is the location of our Prosecco Gastronomad Experience.

Our Spring trip sold out quickly. So we scheduled another one that takes place June 4 - June 9, 2019.

During this magical time, we'll taste some of Italy's best wine and best prosecco. We'll make and taste cheese. Really learn to make pasta. Dine at Veneto's best restaurants. Picnic in stunning vineyards. Enjoy magical gatherings filled with music, fun, food and friendship. And many secret surprises.

If you love food and travel, but don't want to travel alone or on a "tour," then join us on this unique experience.

Our tiny group of six people will stay together in a beautiful farmhouse perched on a breathtaking hill overlooking an amazing valley of green. From there, we'll discover the exquisite hidden spots along the Prosecco Road that only the locals know about.

This adventure will sell out quickly, so send email to mike@elgan.com right away for more information and to grab your spot.

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Tags Italy, Prosecco, Wine, Joy
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Creating the Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience is an act of joy and love

April 10, 2019
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We’re hard at work planning our upcoming Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience! It looks like a lot of fun, but in fact it’s really a lot of fun. The planning is an act of joy, because of the beautiful, brilliant people we get to be with. And it’s an act of love, because we love the culture of Catalonia.

We’re meeting with old friends and new, and Amira is working with our food visionary friends to hand-craft magical gatherings and delicious experiences. We’re tasting everything, scouting locations and planning the deepest, most authentic and most life-changing exploration of Catalonia’s mind-blowing food and wine culture.

During this adventure, our small gang of gastronomads will learn how to cook, drink and party Catalonian style. We’ll explore the amazing foodie city of Barcelona with the both deep traditionalists and new-school innovators who make Barcelona’s food scene unlike any other in the world.

Join us!

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Tags Spain, Catalonia, Cava, Barcelona, Wine, Vineyards, Joy, Love
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What we heard through the grapevine about Morocco and wine

March 3, 2019
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We love Morocco, and spend a lot of time there. And we hear a lot about Moroccan wine, and the strained relationship Moroccans have with it.

Morocco is culturally, historically and gastronomically linked to not only Arab and Berber peoples, but also the wine-drinking Spanish and French.

The tension stems from the Islamic ban on alcohol, plus the fact that during Morocco's colonial period, the French controlled about 90% of the country and many people moved from France and planted vineyards.

And tourism. The essential conflict is between Islamic clergy, which apply pressure to stores and the government to completely ban all alcohol, and the economic health of the country -- alcohol is heavily taxed, and it's availability helps attract millions of tourists to the country, a huge source of foreign revenue. Morocco is a tourist destination. More than 12 million visitors come to the country each year. And most of them are from wine-drinking, non-Muslim countries. They come on holiday, and want to drink wine.

Geographically, Morocco is fantastic for growing wine grapes, a practiced probably introduced to the country by the Phoenicians and carried on by the Romans.

And so the country produces a significant quantity of wine, and the quality has been improving since the 1990s with fresh infusions of French winemakers attracted by great climate and cheap land.

Moroccan culture seems to me to be a shame- rather than a guilt-based culture -- which is to say that many of the trappings of Islamic piety are for show, for the avoidance of social stigmatization, more than displays of deep conviction. So while it's extremely rare to see Moroccans ever drinking alcohol, we’re told that "all" Moroccans do drink it in private and hide it, often from their own families.

Moroccans drink alcohol secretly. The alcohol they drink tends to be wine. Many drink wine for the alcohol more than as something to accompany food. We’ve been told Moroccans tend to be indifferent to quality.

It's technically illegal for Moroccans to buy alcohol. But sellers are eager to sell to Moroccans, as long as they don't get caught doing it. Foreign visitors are allowed to buy it, and you can typically find wine in hotels, restaurants and supermarkets. The supermarkets keep all the alcohol in a special and separate area.

The country of Morocco produces a lot of very bad very wine, some good wine and a small amount of truly great wine.

Moroccans generally drink the bad wine and the tourists and export markets drink the good and great.

And while wine is available at wineries, hotels, some better restaurants and at specialty liquor stores, the culture around wine is conspicuously undeveloped.

Amira and I once ordered a bottle of Moroccan wine during Ramadan (when I believe Moroccans mostly stop drinking wine, even secretly). It was a bottle of red from Morocco's wine country around Meknes. The waiter placed the bottle in an ice bucket with no ice. He had a vague idea that wine goes in one of those buckets, but didn't really understand why.

At another restaurant in Fez, we wanted to try a bottle of wine, but were told they sold wine only by the glass. The "glass" for this glass of wine was a weird thick water glass, and not at all suitable for wine.

We took a flight once from Fez to Marrakesh -- a domestic flight within Morocco. Amira spotted an interesting bottle of wine in a shop in the airport. When she tried to buy it, she was informed that it was forbidden to sell wine to anyone traveling domestically (even though wine is available in Marrakesh).

Leaving Morocco once, we had a few bottles of wine to take back to California. Airport security in Fez runs luggage through an X-ray machine as you enter the airport building. They saw the wine on the X-ray screen. They didn't know what to do. Telling us vaguely that it was "forbidden" to have several bottles of wine, they phoned a supervisor. We waited there for 20 minutes or so before being allowed to enter the airport with our bags.

Making wine in Morocco can be a challenge because of the heat. Digging a cellar in the grape-growing areas and storing or making wine there won't give you the temperatures needed for vinification, fermentation and aging. So Moroccan wineries use air conditioners and, in at least one winery we saw, foam insulation glued to the tanks.

Moroccan wineries don't make sparkling wine, with one exception that I'm aware of (a 100% chardonnay that was pretty awful). Only one winery in Morocco makes a sparkling wine, for which they use the champagne method. It’s a unfortunately not drinkable.

French grape varieties predominate, although some wineries are using some obscure grapes from elsewhere. Mostly we've found Carignan, Cinsaut, Alicante, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Moroccan wineries are also unusual because most eschew tasting rooms. They simply don't allow people to come and taste their wine. A tiny number do allow it, but they tend to charge a fortune for the privilege. And the tastings are not really conducted as you’d expect. Not much information is provided on the wine or the production unless you’re lucky enough to be received by the winemaker, which never really happens for the general public.

Fortunately, if you’re part of our Morocco Gastronomad Experience we’ve got you covered! You’ll get to visit all of Morocco's very best wineries, and taste of all the country's best wines.

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Tags Morocco, Wine, Best, Tasting
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Exploring Moroccan wine

February 17, 2019

Morocco is a primarily Muslim country, and I suspect that most Moroccans don’t drink wine. Ever. However, Morocco was also a French colony, and, ergo: a significant wine industry exists in Morocco.

Amira and I haven’t had any wine for two weeks while in Mocorro. We’ve been living deep inside the Medinas in Fez, Marrakesh and elsewhere, where wine simply isn’t sold. But today we arrived in Essaouira, where the wine culture is more prominent. Tomorrow, we’re going wine tasting locally. And later, we’re going to check out the Napa Valley of Morocco, called Meknes.

Oddly, the Morocco wine scene reminds me of the Mexican wine scene. A wine industry is struggling to emerge in a country of non-wine drinkers. The domestic market is brutal for them, and the export market is even worse. Still, they persist.

We’re on a quest to find Morocco’s best wines, and we’ll report back when we find some excellent ones. Stay tuned!

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Tags Morocco, Wine
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